Staverton Park – Gossips and Prophets

8 drawings in response to Staverton Park and Thicks, Suffolk

“Staverton is a place of mystery and wonder; it has a peculiar effect on first-time visitors who have no foreknowledge that the world contains such places” (Oliver Rackham, The History of the Countryside, 1986)

In the autumn of 2023 The Arborealists engaged in a two-year exhibition project on Staverton Park in partnership with Dr George Peterken OBE, celebrated expert and author on natural woodland and Gary Battell, ex-Suffolk County Council Tree Officer. Previous site-specific projects for the group have includes Lady Park Wood, Monmouthshire, and Trees and Woodland on Exmoor and Dartmoor.

Privately owned Staverton Park, of 240 acres and near Woodbridge in Suffolk, is one of the largest areas of ancient, pollarded oak trees in Europe. Of Saxon origin, the park is one of a handful of British medieval parks to have a continuous history from its establishment to the present. It is home to some rare and special fauna and flora and was one of the very first Sites of Special Scientific Interest to be established.

Staverton is the most remarkable woodland containing individual oak specimens with distinct characters and otherworldly forms. The Thicks are a delicious tangle, overwhelming and confusing as you enter, with gnarled, hollowed oaks grappling with vines, alongside giant holly and fine birches, striated with age. The neighbouring Park hosts an army of stoic oaks, seemingly spaced in a regimented way much as a Somerset Orchard, only wilder and much larger.

It’s hard to convey the sense of awe that creeps up on you as you first enter the site – to be confronted by the visual and energetic qualities of these unique organisms, dizzying and disorientating. Venturing from a defined path, the floor of the Thicks was, in places, carpeted with a patchwork of holly leaves in a variety of green; newer leaves still deep with shine and others muted by early decomposition. This instantly reminded me of childhood, and the hollies which seemed to feature a lot in the semi-ornamental planting of the Chines which led to the sea, near to where we lived in Poole.

 

The Thicks felt forbidding, tangled territory full of secrecy, barbs and myth, yet still inviting your senses to run wild. The surrounding area is one of secrecy and from neighbouring Rendlesham Forest with its otherworldly tales, and the nearby curiosity of Orford Ness with its role in the Cold War, Staverton is in every sense real yet there is something intangible, removed and perhaps preternatural in the feeling of being there. 

No visit to a wood or encounter with trees has ever felt as Staverton did. It is simultaneously familiar in the way that nature can be, comforting in its mystery but alien in the feeling of something forgotten or lost to our knowledge. You leave with a sense of something rediscovered and reawakened, alert, intrigued. 

On reaching our accommodation that evening, I delved back into Arboreal, an anthology of Woodland writing published by Little Toller Books. In his essay ‘Forest of Eyes’, Paul Kingsnorth, conveys the possible reason behind the feeling of being in Staverton. Talking about mycelium networks, he says: “A collective fungal consciousness: it is quite a claim… It could be that a woodland is not simply a collection of trees, bushes and birds. It could be that a woodland is, after all, alive. In some sense, it is a being. And it is watching you.”

“The oak woods at Staverton are the forests of childhood, the forests of dreams. Here perhaps more than anywhere else I have ever been, the forest of the imagination materialises, becomes actual.” (Sarah Maitland, Gossip from the Forest) 

All drawings 21 x 30cm, Faber Castell Polychromos on Bristol Board

Also check out Chris Hamer’s blog, Frames of Reference, which explores Staverton Thicks and many other sites

Little Toller Books

The Arborealists

The Minories

Witness

The Arborealists – Ancient Trees

Nature in Art, Twigworth, Gloucester GL2 9PA 10th Sept – 13th Oct

We live in a belt of mixed woodland, both public and private, on the north Dorset border, which contains fine examples of veteran and ancient oak. The tree I have depicted for this exhibition is no more. It fell during Storm Eunice on 18th February 2022, which set a new record for the fastest wind gust recorded in England (122 mph). To witness the exact moment of the end of a 400 year-old tree, at the mercy of such energy, was surreal, shocking and bewildering.

The tree stood just a few yards from home, and we feel the loss of this friend daily.

Having already made work about two of Dorset’s most famous ancient trees – the Silton Oak (Wyndham’s Oak), near Gillingham, and the Martyr’s Tree at Tolpuddle – I wanted to work with another Dorset tree that captured the essence of it’s ancient companions, something with a character and presence.

The Witness Oak was on it’s way to ancient status, with neighbouring park and woodland oaks rich in variety, form and shape, including one just a few yards from home which has been estimated to be at least 500 years old. There is also a much older ‘big belly’ oak in Sherborne Park Camp, which is certainly ancient judging by its girth and form. Studying these species on daily walks, I have become more aware of some of the challenges facing these majestic lifeforms including pressure from land use, disease and climate change. We confer special status on ancient trees but in this new work I wanted to convey a sense of what is inherently special or unique in all lifeforms.

Thanks to people like Julian Hight and George Peterken, I have become increasingly interested in different aspects of tree ecology, folklore and land management; this, in turn, now has an effect on my own practice. I wanted to use my involvement in this project to acknowledge the fragile resource of our remaining ancient trees. Will the effects of human activity and events such as increased storms lead to more trees not making it to their ancient years?

Witness, Graphite on Bristol Board, 2024